Galápagos

Saturday, July 23, 2011: I went on deck around 6am to look for seabirds. We were still enroute to Genovesa (Tower) Island. Before reaching Genovesa, I had added Red-footed Booby to my Galápagos list.

Red-footed Booby
Red-footed Booby
Genovesa: Seabirds and Cliffs
Genovesa: Seabirds and Cliffs

We entered Darwin Bay, an ancient caldera that is partially open to the sea. After breakfast, we made a wet landing on the beach. The local form of “Galapagos” Mockingbird quickly put in an appearance. We would see quite a few of these. A Gray Warbler-Finch replaced a Yellow Warbler on a seaside rock, another bird I would see more of. We walked along the beach looking mainly at nesting birds — frigatebirds, boobies, gulls. Before long, I'd seen several of the warbler-finches, a Large Cactus Finch, and a few of the local Sharp-beaked Ground-Finches. We later got a good comparison between side-by-side Large Cactus-Finch and Large Ground-Finch.

Magnificent Frigatebird Family Swallow-tailed Gull
Magnificent Frigatebird Family Genovesa: Seabirds and Cliffs
Great Frigatebird Chick Great Frigatebird
Great Frigatebird Chick Great Frigatebird
Swallow-tailed Gulls Marine Iguanas
Swallow-tailed Gulls Marine Iguanas
Yellow Warbler Galapagos Sea Lion
Yellow Warbler Galapagos Sea Lion
Red-footed Booby Nazca Booby
Red-footed Booby Nazca Booby
Great Frigatebird Galapagos Mockingbird
Great Frigatebird Galapagos Mockingbird
Swallow-tailed Gull Red-footed Booby
Swallow-tailed Gull Red-footed Booby
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Gray Warbler-Finch
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Gray Warbler-Finch
Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch Great Frigatebirds
Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch Great Frigatebirds
Red-footed Booby Red-footed Booby
Red-footed Boobies
Red-footed Booby Red-footed Booby with Chick
Red-footed Boobies

We continued to see more of the same while some of the group snorkeled. This allowed me to get a better feel for these birds. Finally, it was time to return to the boat. They had a special Ecudadorian-themed lunch for us. Lunch came to an abrupt end when someone sighted a whale. Unfortunately, it did not resurface in the bay, so only two people saw it (not me).

Large Ground-Finch Galapagos Mockingbird
Large Ground-Finch Galapagos Mockingbird
Large Cactus-Finch Swallow-tailed Gull
Large Cactus-Finch Swallow-tailed Gull
Red-footed Booby with Chick Great Frigatebird
Red-footed Booby with Chick Great Frigatebird
Galapagos Mockingbird Great Frigatebird
Galapagos Mockingbird Great Frigatebird

We went out in pangas in mid-afternoon. A short cruise along the cliffs of the caldera revealed a number of nesting birds, including Red-billed Tropicbirds. We also found some Galapagos Fur Seals. They aren't really seals. They are a type of sea lion. Oddly, the two types of sea lion in the Galápagos are not closely related. The Galapagos Sea Lion derives from the California Sea Lion, while the Galapagos Fur Seal is descended from the Subantarctic Fur Seal.

Red-billed Tropicbird Red-billed Tropicbird
Red-billed Tropicbird
Prince Phillip's Steps Galapagos Fur Seals
Prince Phillip's Steps Galapagos Fur Seals

We then climbed Prince Phillip's Steps to the top of the caldera. I think it was only about 60 feet to the top. The vegetation on top can't hide the volcanic origin of the island. We spent much of the time walking on frozen lava. The island also appears to be falling apart. There are numerous fissures in the rock, and I expect those are being further eroded every year.

Genovesa Visitors
Genovesa Visitors

We walked through booby nesting areas to a more open area where a large number of Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrels and other seabirds were flying about. The storm-petrels nest in little crevices in the rock. There is also a predator here, an owl. We started searching for the owl. Eventually, we found 3 or 4 Short-eared Owls. A couple of them briefly flew around together, but mostly they sat on the ground looking like a piece of congealed lava.

Storm-Petrels over Land Short-eared Owl
Storm-Petrels over Land Short-eared Owl
Nazca Booby with Eggs Wing Excercise
Nazca Booby with Eggs Wing Excercise

After observing the show for a while, we returned along the same path, went down the steps, and called for our pangas. We began our navigation to Isabela Island soon after all were back on board.

After dinner, I went out briefly to look at the stars. For once, there were no clouds and I had a nice view of the Milky Way from the Northern Cross to the Southern Cross. Then I went to bed. I have to be out at dawn to look for seabirds and whales. The Swallow-tailed Gulls were also out flying around the boat.

My bird total for the day was 22 species, including 1 lifer. My trip total increased by 3 to 46 species, with 28 lifers.

Aboard the Isabela II, Galápagos